The Grip of Leather Jackets on Western Societies

Darya Kartalaei

Fashion Club Member

When asked about the time period leather jackets came into vogue, many refer to the 1990s model-off-duty looks of Kate Moss and Cindy Crawford. However, the history of leather is much more rooted in the 20th century and carries a profound political past. Due to the influence of upper-class icons, the leather jacket transformed from a disgraced biker club symbol to a high-fashion wardrobe staple. From the Great War to couture, this item has slowly become entrenched in our society.

In the Post-WWI years, the motorcycle industry faced an influx in their sales. Simultaneously, motorcyclists began identifying with widespread biker clubs such as the New York-based Yonker MCs. When Irving Shott launched the ‘Perfecto’ motorcycle jacket in 1928, the members gravitated towards its adventurous yet perilous feel and claimed it as their national uniform. The jacket sold for an economical price of $5.50 (the equivalent value of $66 in 2023) in Long Island’s Harley Davidson Store and, shortly after, was adopted by the American Motorcyclist Association (AMA) members.

Before Schott’s design, aviators predominantly wore leather - the most well-known being Amelia Earhart and Charles Lindberg. Biker gangs deemed incorruptible and lawless, changed this heroic association with leather, giving rise to a look that would soon represent a lack of respect for law and authority. Biker gangs roamed the streets in groups freely: the loud roar of motors echoed their presence but also hinted at uprising trouble. Throughout the 1940s, bikers initiated a series of crimes, varying from small misdemeanors to grand-scale riots. One outrageous incident, however, pulled national attention to biker gangs and classified their members as America’s “outlaws” - the infamous 1947 Hollister riots. The news of this bloody event established incorruptible and rebellious personas in the media, which changed perceptions of motorcyclists across the nation. The public became wary of the bikers and recognized the members by their telling attire. At the time, the ‘Perfecto’ jacket was redefined as a gang symbol with social and political connotations.

It was not until pop culture embraced rebellion that leather jackets were regarded as a dignified wardrobe choice. In the early 1950s, the style sprouted in Hollywood, which romanticized the untouchability of abhorred biker gangs; Marlo Brando’s “lawless outfit” in The Wild Ones and James Franco’s role as a convict in Rebel Without a Cause boomed the market of ‘perfecto’ leather jackets. In the blink of an eye, the revolt was no longer resisted and evolved into a desirable and purchasable characteristic available to all. Uniforms of clubs such as Hell’s Angels became the fashion blueprint of many in spite of the members’ distasteful portrayal in the media. The American public began to distinguish Shott’s cowhide leather jackets as a statement of unconformity. The attire entitled the consumer with a sense of danger, dignity, and mystery when walking the familiar streets of their hometown. To a stranger’s eyes, they were incorruptible but capable of corrupting - just like the outlaws.

In the 1970s, the leather jacket made a return as a political symbol for The Black Panther Party. Although not as recognizable of an emblem as the black berets, they signified the party’s challenge of White respectability and their demand for equality. The skirts and suits of the Civil War Movement, worn by Black people to gain dignified treatment from White authority, were traded for leather jackets; in other words, conformity with the majority was exchanged for confronting the masses' power. Words were needless when The Black Panthers arose; their outfits exuded distaste for White America and defiance against police forces. Along with berets, sunglasses, and Afros, leather jackets solidified the Black Power era in American societies, marking a revolution.

Despite becoming a common wardrobe piece for the middle and lower class, leather jackets remained an anomalous look up to the late 70s. Then, the music industry, facing the emergence of new genres, took notice of the style. When David Bowie’s Heroes album (1977) was released, he was seen wearing an Aero's leathers’ tight-fitted leather bomber jacket. The following year, Grease (1978) played in the theatres. Olivia Newton-John, playing a high-school student in the 50s, rocks a cropped ‘Perfecto’ leather jacket; depicting a young and rebellious teenager who defies gender roles. Leather’s introduction to music culture was a turning point for its affront reputation.

Bowie and Newton softened the harsh connotations of leather jackets, paving the way for its integration with high fashion. Throughout the 1980s, more popular artists embraced the biker jacket and incorporated its rebellious notoriety into their public image. Joan Jett during the Gurl Punk era, the King of Pop Michael Jackson, and Grace Jones in the James Bond film "A View To A Kill" by director John Glen were seen wearing slightly altered versions of this ‘Perfecto’ leather jacket. The leather look was stylish. It was empowering. It was versatile. It was an irrefutable statement.

Today, leather jackets are a niche. Luxurious brands including Loewe, Balenciaga, Madra Butrim, and Yves Saint Laurent feature different versions of the style on their runway shows: cropped, bomber, trenchcoat, coat - you name it.

Leather jackets are now a leading design in couture. Their new introduction to Western society is directed by prosperous individuals who set the boundaries between luxury and austerity. With inflated prices that rack up to a few thousand dollars, quality leather jackets are established as exclusive to high-class citizens who aim for “cool with a slight edge” or “biker chic.” The same qualities previously resisted in Hell’s Angels and The Black Panther Party are idealized. Due to fashion’s obsession with money, the new generation no longer regards leather as an expression of defiance but as an affluent aesthetic.

On your next shopping spree, think about the reason behind your gravitation towards a piece of clothing and question how high society’s approval of the material or the style plays a role in your purchase.